(Part 1 of 5)
CHECK YOUR GROUNDS:
A bad or marginal ground
connection to the distributor's breaker plate is by far the most common
problem.
This wire can be found under the breaker plate of the distributor.
Every time the vacuum advance moves the point plate, your existing
ground wire is flexed. This will eventually cause fatigue cracks inside
the wire insulation or near the terminals. This is also true for the
point wire, since it also flexes when the plate moves.
If the wiring is several years old, it
should be replaced using a high flexibility (high strand-count)
conductor with high temperature insulation.
As stated, a bad or marginal ground is most often the answer to the
problem of a non-working Breakerless-SE module. The
Breakerless-SE
is more sensitive to ground conditions than the old points were.
So when a customer says "My car worked fine with the points but I get no
spark after installing the Breakerless-SE." We tell them,
"Remove the breaker plate and check the ground
wire to the breaker plate. Make sure the ground wire and terminals
are not corroded and that the wire is not cut. Remove the wire and
clean the terminals and the area under the terminals to insure the
integrity of the ground".
If you are sure you've checked this ground wire and are still having
problems, please read PART 2 below.
(Part 2 of 5)
ROTOR:
If the car started with the
points, but not after installation of the Breakerless-SE module,
check that the rotor was modified per the installation instructions,
re-installed and indexed correctly and that the battery ground cable was
re-attached. If the distributor was moved, the timing may be too far
advanced or retarded. Set the timing statically, as described in the
instruction sheets.
DISTRIBUTOR:
NOTE: As stated above, a bad or marginal
ground connection to the distributor's breaker plate is by far the most
common problem with the Breakerless-SE not operating at all.
Also, if you had painted your
distributor, intake manifold, or block, make sure that there is a
paint-free contact area between all of these components. If not,
you may loose your distributor's connection to ground.
COIL:
If all of this looks OK, use a test light to verify there is voltage
present between the coil's (+) terminal and ground, with the key in both
the start and run positions. Loss of voltage may be due to blown fuse,
faulty ballast resistor or improper wiring. With the key in the run
position and the engine stopped, check that voltage is also present
where the point wire connects to the module. This will verify continuity
though the coil primary and the point wire.
Last, connect one lead of the test light to
battery (+), and touch the other end to the point plate to verify
continuity to ground. Note! Before beginning any tests, always first
check that your test light works by connecting it across the battery.
---------------------
If a bad coil is suspected, it should be
replaced or a live spark test can be performed. (A coil testing
procedure is shown below in PART 3)
WARNING!
The coil generates extremely high voltage, which can be lethal. For
safety and convenience, use the test procedure outlined below, or as
described in your shop manual. Do not perform this test if fuel vapors
or any combustible materials are present.
You will need to purchase a calibrated
standard ignition test plug to perform this test. These are manufactured
by the K-D Tools company (K-D part# 2757) and are available at most auto
parts stores for under $10. This plug forces the coil to generate a
known voltage, providing an accurate pass/fail evaluation.
Turn off the ignition switch. Remove the
high voltage wire from the coil. Remove one spark plug wire from the car
and attach it to the test plug. Insert the other end into the coil. Clip
the test plug to the hood hinge on the driver's side.
Crank the engine over. The spark should
easily jump the gap and will vary in color from blue (strong) to yellow
(weak) depending on the output of the battery during cranking, as well
as several other factors (you may need to do this test in a darkened
area).
If you are sure you've checked this ground wire and are still having
problems, please read PART 3 below.
MODULE:
If all this checks out, the coil
or the Breakerless-SE module may be suspect. To test the module,
remove the point wire from the coil (-) and attach it to the test light.
Connect the other end of the test light to +12 volts. The light should
blink rapidly while the engine is being cranked, and go out when the
engine stops. If the light does not come on, or stays on when the engine
is stopped, the module should be sent in for further testing. Note! This
test must be performed with a test light; a voltmeter will not provide
correct results.
(Part 3 of 5)
Make sure that you have inspected the following:
CHECK YOUR GROUNDS:
- Check all your engine block grounds! Make sure they are securely
fastened to the frame. The old saying still holds true..."Check
your grounds!" These ground wire or ground straps MUST be clean
and without corrosion on the wires or terminals.
COIL:
- NOTHING can (or should be) attached
to the positive (+) side of the coil except the ballast resistor or
resistance wire. (For example, do not attach an electric choke,
alarm system power supply, etc. to the + side of the coil.
You will be drawing current through the ballast resistor or resistance
wire which will effect the supply of current to the Breakerless-SE
module). - NOTHING can (or should
be) attached to the negative (-) side of the coil except the body
ground. (For example, do not attach a tachometer directly to the
coil. It will interfere with the operation of the
Breakerless-SE module).
- You should be using the proper coil. The
Breakerless-SE was designed for classic restoration cars.
Consequently, the Breakerless-SE is compatible with all
original/stock GM Delco Remy coils
when used in conjunction with
the factory installed ballast resistor.
These original-type coils are
high-inductance and have a primary resistance of 1.2 to 2.8 ohms.
Most aftermarket or
"hi-performance" coils are compatible as well, as long as their primary
resistance is within the range of 1.2 to 2.8 ohms.
The Breakerless-SE will perform at its best when using a coil with a
primary resistance of 1.3 ohms.
How can you tell what the
primary resistance of your coil is? You can get this information
from the coil's box, contact the manufacturer, or use a quality
ohmmeter on the coil.
To check your coil, disconnect all the wires
attached to the coil. "zero" your ohmmeter. Then connect your ohmmeter
across the (+) and (-) posts of the coil (this is the primary winding).
This primary resistance reading should be between 1.2 and 2.8 ohms.
Next, connect your ohmmeter between the (+) side of the coil and the coil's
center post (this is the secondary winding). This secondary winding
reading should read about 7000 ohms.
Be sure to follow the coil
manufacturers installation instructions carefully, or contact them whenever
installing a non-stock coil. Before you buy a new coil, you will want to
contact the manufacturer for compatibility issues.
NOTE: DO NOT
use the Breakerless-SE with any MSD Blaster coils or coils
with low primary resistance. The primary resistance on these coils
is too low (about 0.5 ohm) and will ruin the Breakerless-SE module and
void your warranty!!!
BALLAST RESISTOR:
- MAKE SURE that you have the proper
ballast resistor or resistance wire installed. For 1966 & under
years GM cars, the resistance across the ballast resistor or resistance
wire should be 1.8 ohms. For 1967 & up year GM cars, the resistance
across the ballast resistor or resistance wire should be 1.3 ohms.
The
Breakerless-SE works optimally with 1.3 ohms resistance.
How can you check if you have the properly rated ballast resistor or
resistance wire in your car, or if it's even any good? First
disconnect all the wires going to the ballast resistor. Connect a
QUALITY digital ohmmeter or, ideally, an oscilloscope across the 2
posts. (Make sure you "zero" the meter before testing.) If
testing resistance wire, connect your meter where the resistance wire
starts and ends. The resistance reading (ohms) you get should
match that stated in the above paragraph.
You need to check resistance! You can not simply check the
voltage reading at the coil, and with this reading make assumptions
about the value or integrity of your ballast resistor (or resistance
wire). Checking voltage will
not give you an accurate representation of the resistance, unless
you have a sophisticated oscilloscope and know how to use it.
Do NOT operate the Breakerless-SE without the proper ballast
resistor or resistance wire installed! The proper ballast resistor
or resistance wire must be used.
If you are sure you've checked this ground wire and are still having
problems, please read PART 4 below.
(Part 4 of 5)
Do NOT use any di-electric grease or heat sink compound on the bottom of
the Breakerless-SE module.
It is not necessary. And it can cause
the
Breakerless-SE module to function erratically or not function at
all. As stated above, it is critical that the Breakerless-SE
module has a good, solid ground. Any type of grease applied
between the bottom of the module and the breaker plate will cause
problems.
If you already applied the grease, remove
it. Then wipe the entire area clean with alcohol or acetone to
remove any greasy residue.
(Part 5 of 5)
Recently, we have discovered that there is a company manufacturing
"reproduction" ballast resistors. Unfortunately, 10 out of the 10
ballast resistor we tested are out of spec. and have a resistance that
is too high. This equates to a voltage that is too low at the
coil; which will cause your Breakerless-SE not to operate
properly or not operate at all.
If you installed the Breakerless-SE
your car would either have a ballast resistor or a resistance wire.
The resistance on the ballast resistor or resistance wire should be
checked. The
Breakerless-SE works optimally with 1.3 ohms resistance.
Cars with a Ballast Resistor: If
your car has a ballast resistor, you need check the resistance while the
resistor is at operating temperature (warm/hot). Let the car run
for awhile to get the ballast resistor warmed-up. While the car is
running, so as to not allow the resistor to cool, place one probe of
your multi-meter on one lead of the ballast resistor, and the other
probe on the remaining lead of the ballast resistor. You should read a
resistance of 1.2 to 2.8 ohms. If you don't, your ballast resistor
is out of spec. or defective and must be replaced.
Cars with a Resistance Wire: If
your car does not have a ballast resistor it uses a resistance wire. How
can you tell which wire is the resistance wire? The resistance
wire is the non-yellow wire at the + side of the coil *. If your
car has a resistance wire, you need check the resistance while the wire
is at operating temperature (warm/hot). To do so, let the car run
for awhile to get the resistance wire warmed-up. While the car is
running, so as to not allow the wire to cool, place one probe of your
multi-meter one the wire (at the switch side). Place the other
probe at the end of the wire (at the coil + side). You should read a
resistance of 1.2 to 2.8 ohms. If you don't, your wiring harness
needs to be replaced.
* Not knowing the
history of your car, it's possible that the
resistance wire on your car had been removed, if,
for example,
a previous owner installed an MSD ignition.
The resistance wire
must be removed when installing an MSD ignition
system but
must remain intact, as original, when installing
the
Breakerless-SE. |